Aesthetics of Lurik Cloth for Adang Ceremony at Kasunanan Palace Surakarta Hadiningrat

FP. Sri Wuryani

Abstract


The Adang Ceremony held at the Kasunanan Palace in Surakarta has an important meaning; firstly it is performed by a King as the ruler of a large kingdom in his time. The second is held only once every eight years, namely in the Dal year, as a form of Islamic religious broadcasting and the acculturation of Javanese culture with Islamic culture. Acculturation is reflected in the purpose of the ceremony, which is to commemorate the birthday of the Prophet Muhammad, the 13th of the month of Mulud, and to honor the ancestral spirits of the Kings of Mataram, as the forerunners of the Mataram Kingdom, especially the Kasunanan Palace of Surakarta. The three adang ceremonies are carried out using traditional equipment that is environmentally friendly. Adang uses Pusaka Dalem Dandang Kangjeng Kyai Dhudho, a Kasunanan Palace heirloom in the form of a large cormorant. Striated cloth is a ladder cloth and clothing of Dandang Kangjeng Kyai Dhudho in an adang ceremony. Striated cloth for ladder consists of various patterns: 1.Ciut Lurik Yuyu Sekandang Merah, 2. Ciut Lurik Yuyu Sekandhang Putih,3.Ciut Lurik Tuluh Watu Malang, 4.Ciut Lurik Tuluh Watu Mujur, 5.Ciut Luruk Pali,6.Ciut Lurik Gedong Madu, 7.Ciut Lurik Liwatan, 8.Ciut Lurik Poleng, 9. Ciut Lurik Uler Serit, 10. Sinjang Wiyar Lurik Kepyur, 11. Sinjang Wiyar Lurik Dengklung,12. Sinjang Wiyar Lurik Tumbar Pecah, 13. Sinjang Wiyar Wari. The striated fabrics are folded, put in a tray and placed on the table together with other offerings. Sinjang Wiyar Lurik Dengklung is worn for the Dandang Kangjeng Kyai Dhudho cloth. The role of Sinjang Lurik Dengklung has a special meaning, namely as clothing for the heirloom of the Kasunanan Palace of Surakarta in the form of a Kyai Dhudho cormorant. The aesthetics of dengurung lurik cloth in an adang ceremony, viewed from 3 elements; shape, content and appearance. The shape or form, lurik cloth with dengklung pattern for adang ceremony, in the form of a long cloth / wiyar (in the form of a jarit / nyamping) measuring 90 cm wide and approximately 2.5 meters long, black with white stripes at both ends of the fabric. Appearance, to realize the Wiyar of lurik cloth with dengklung; it requires talent, skills and media. The manufacturing process, from natural materials namely cotton fibers made into yarn, woven with non-machine looms (ATBM) until become a lurik cloth, through a long and complicated process requires patience, painstaking, skills from beginning to ready to use. Appearance in the adang ceremony, Lurik Dengklung is used as a cloth of Dandang Kangjeng Kyai Dhudho, by being wrapped around the body of the cormorant and tied with white lawe yarn, requires skill to be neat and not easily separated. The combination that occurs in red, black and white. Red from the color of cormorant made from copper, black from lurik dengklung cloth, and white from the color of lawe yarn. The weight or content contained in the lurik dengklung, from the color combination that occurs namely red of the cormorant copper, the black lurik dengklung and the white of the lawe yarn. The color combination, as a symbol of fertility. The conditions that are expected from agrarian communities like Java, namely fertile land are expected to produce good crops. The white color is the symbol of the upper world (women) which brings rain, black is the symbol of the earth or the world below (men). Fertility will be achieved if there is a “marriage” (marriage of the cosmos), the upper world ie white or yellow with black, the underworld. The union of the two needs intermediaries, namely the middle world, symbolized by the red, the color of the red copper cormorant, as a symbol of the world in which humans live. Rice in the cormorant is transcendent (lucky), is believed to bring fortune, as a pest repellent and as a reinforcement. The fertility achieved brings peace, prosperity and cosmic order.

Keywords: adang, cormorant, lurik dengklung, symbol meaning

DOI: 10.7176/ADS/77-03

Publication date:October 31st 2019


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